Impressions from the Fashion Week in Paris

Valentino shows dresses like a boudoirvalentino suddenly becomes exciting. Half a year ago, after the extremely successful years at Gucci, Alessandro Michele showed his first collection for the Roman fashion house.

This time the setting for its “meta theater of intimacies” is spectacular: a hall that was dived in red, loud club music, sides of the sinks and toilet doors. After the show, Michele says that it is about the contrast between inside and outside, between intimal and exhibited. And the clothes are really like a boudoir, very filigree, with lots of lace, step volants, wild pattern mix and yet many allusions to the old master Valentino itself. The male things in between are made like for US singer Jared Leto, who is also in the front row. A cooperation with vans sneakers fits into the incredibly variable picture of a brand that is lost in dreams and still wants to do good business. Does Jonathan Anderson from Loewe discount? Is that now the end? Loewe chose a completely different presentation this time. Instead of rushing models over the catwalk, designer Jonathan Anderson shows his fashion for autumn and winter in a special city palace on Rue de l’UniUnité: From 1975 Karl Lagerfeld lived for three decades – as long as in no other house in his long life. The wonderful presentation in light -flooded halls could be a farewell salute of Anderson because it looks museum and because it cannot be seen himself. So does he leave Loewe? External content also acts for this also speaks for the fact that he shared many moments from his more than eleven years at the LVMH brand: impressions of views, from the red carpet, from celebrities such as Rihanna, Jennifer Coolidge and Daniel Craig, especially in a reel. Apparently Anderson goes to Dior. At Loewe there would be space for Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez by Proenza Schouler.Tom Ford, Anna Wintourwann is already rising from her seat to start standing up? The Data page, but make it fashion has calculated: only four times in recent years, for example with Sarah Burton’s last show for McQueen 2023. Then Haider Ackermann made his debut at Tom Ford, and then the editor -in -chief of the American “Vogue” really jumped up from her seat. Not that it was worth it! Ackermann interpreted Fords women and men as he has always seen: strong, sexy, noble, expensive. But what should you do with these Wall Street suits today? In the past, when there was still a future, black suits with black leather gloves and narrow black leather tie were still futuristic. Today they are only from yesterday. Sit! Tom Ford presents suits that are more reminiscent of the Wall Street. Privati ​​duran Lantink will be bizarre the young talents who make Paris in addition to all the power brands to the fashion capital par excellence, has been standing out for a few seasons. His show becomes a bizarre experience by the fact that in the middle of the catwalk office worker in their cubicles label and stamp papers – and at the beginning of the show over microphones in a gruesome singing. Duran lantics shows a wild mix on the Laufsteg.Fpdie expectations were not set too high. The Dutch designer shows a wild mix: zebra patterns, sprayed onto the body, cow, leopard, snake patterns, oversized blousons, such as inflated, carous skirts, hung in front of the body, knitting sweaters with a hood like a hoodie, oversized shoulders that go over both ears. The 37 -year -old designer dominates all forms so well that he knows how to play. With this esprit, he could also become the new chief designer of one of the slumbering large brands. What he would certainly no longer do: As a “bride” at the end of the show, send a man with a naked upper body over the catwalk on which two swirls of large silicone breasts hang. At the age of just 29, Florentina Leitner therefore built up its own brand in the Belgian fashion capital. For the fifth time, the Austrian made it to the official calendar of the Paris fashion week. Their deconstruction of fashion is fun despite the dark spray. For autumn and winter it can be influenced by American cheerleaders-and shows her collection in three successive presentations in a gym with basketball basket. Mini lines are kidnapped by aliens. A little bit at once? Yes, but she needs so much to live out her imagination, which was also stimulated by UFO views. Florentina Leitner already sells her collections in Antwerp, Japan and South Korea. Now it’s time for Germany and Austria. Incidentally, she misses the mountains at her old home. There are not so many of them in Belgium. To a guest at GiveCenchy: US actress Rooney Marascott a Garfitt/Invision/APGIVENCHY goes into the future undertake all the premieres in this prêt-à-porter season was the most important thing: Sarah Burton has shown her first collection for givecenchy. The designer, who began in 1996 as an intern at Alexander McQueen and became the chief designer of the brand after his death in 2010, has long known the fashion house founded by Hubert de Givenchy – after all, her boss McQueen was the creative director there from 1996 to 2001. No wonder that Burton, who became known in 2011 by Kate Middleton’s wedding dress for her wedding with Prince William, was very well thought out – right up to a thick black loop on the neck, as Givenchy had already set in his first collection in 1952 as a highlight. But Sarah Burton does not freeze in veneration, but gives the LVMH brand a modern face with minimalist means and sculptural forms. Givenchy had lost the direction under her predecessor Matthew M. Williams. Now it’s going straight to the future. Balenciaga is coming to the Bodenwie? A portable Balenciaga collection? Yep, there is! At least for autumn and winter. Hard to believe, but instead of ghostly shaping this time, models run over the catwalk that carry the right suits (one wrote as if the poor man had an entire office day behind him), real clothes, jackets, hoodies, puma sneakers from a cooperation with the German sports fashion manufacturer. “Yes, that’s a bit of Demna 2.0,” says designer Demna after the show. You have to believe it, because he really wears a suit that he has been tailored. This means either that the 43-year-old, always rebellious designer is now really grown up, or that it is more oriented towards the customer because the numbers in the Kering Group do not look good at all, or that even fashion should come on the ground at such times. After the show: Three Balenciaga Männermodels Backstagealfons Kaiser A few looks, by the way, show the old Balenciaga of the overcarriages: A hoodie to the ground, like a long, protective dress. This also fits with these times. Hermès experiment more than ever many large luxury houses stagnating or even losing sales. This does not apply to two large brands in Italy and France: Prada and Hermès grow as if there were no global problems. At Prada, this is mainly due to the experimental line Miu Miu. And Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski is also experimenting with Hermès more than ever. Hermès was rarely so diverse. Afpdie designer, which has been responsible for the Hermès ladies for almost eleven years, is not impressed that it is actually possible for autumn and winter: she sends shorts made of structured leather over the catwalk, great bomber jackets, changing coats, coats like big ceilings. And it is not everything black either, as some believe afterwards – the color palette ranges from traditional beige to poisonous light green. Hermès was rare so variable and versatile.

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