When time becomes an investment

Reading time: 4 min reserved for subscribers besides the pleasure of enjoying a beautiful room, some watches are a real boon, with return on investment, more profitable than actions at the bank. At a time when the market has a slowdown, is it finally the right time to bet on a proven timepiece? “In 2024, the record for our sales, that is to say the part which sold at the highest price on our site, was a nautilus of Patek Philippe in Rose Gold, the reference 5980, a fairly recent model” underlines Osanna Orlowski, co-founder of Collector Square. This wonder of 2022 has indeed sold more expensive than its original price. On the one hand, because this model, in general, is produced in very small quantities. But also by what a rumor, confirmed since, was circulating: Patek Philippe was going to stop this reference in pink gold. Like the bags of the 1980s of Chanel or Saint Laurent, which had become almost not found, or the famous Birkin or Kelly of Hermès, which is said to be that the house rations production, some watches see their side. By their rarity or their history but also thanks to the charm of the patina, they resell at prices of gold. Consequence? The watchmaking industry has seen the second -hand market explode. So much so that the consulting firm Deloitte predicted, in a 2022 study, that it could represent more than half of the new watches market by 2030. A gigantic potential that does not escape anyone. The resale sites proliferate and the brands follow the movement, launching their authentication and certification program in turn. Find our slideshow: luxury and collection watches at hand The second-hand market is normalizedwatchfinder & Co., a platform founded in 2002 and bought by the Richemont group, is thus accredited by large factories such as Panerai, IWC, Vacheron Constantin or Cartier, to be able to offer a two-year-old guarantee coupled by the brand. Rolex lovers can also afford an used eyes closed, thanks to the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned program. It must be said that the crown brand is one of the most popular. And for good reason. “There is more demand than supply. A barely purchased new model is already gaining value. This is explained by production delays, hampered by the health crisis and then the war in Ukraine, and by the difficulties in obtaining raw materials, ”points out Osanna Orlowski. Sometimes you have to wait two or three years before having the watch of your dreams. Having your Rolex at 50 is anticipated. However, after having excited, the second -hand market normalizes. The Bloomberg Subdial Watch Index index, which follows the prices of the 50 most exchanged models, has dropped by 6% in 2023, reaching its lowest level since 2021. “Those who had bet on cryptomonia turned to modern watches. Not being connoisseurs, they opted for sure values: Rolex, Audemars Piguet or Breguet. Today, the price of new watches has dropped. A Patek Philippe, who bought 40,000 euros and sold 200,000 euros, is now sold between 80,000 and 100,000 euros. The rarer and older models arouse interest more, ”explains Romain Ré, expert and precursor: in 1994 he opened his first used timepiece shop. Find our slideshow – XXS watches: 9 XXL style models to adopt mythical models arouse a strong craze of antiquorum, auction house of beautiful watches on the Internet, Romain Ré remains confident. He recalls that before the 1980s were good investments, thanks to the manufacturing methods of the time, less automated. “And also thanks to the legacy that certain models wear, such as the sports past of the Rolex Daytona offered to the winner of the eponymous race.” The co -founder of Collector Square evokes certain mythical models such as the bathtubs, tank or Panther of Cartier or the brands with smaller volumes like Breguet or Blancpain, “which appeal to new generations”. Influenced by rappers like Tyler, The Creator, collector of Cartier Crash, or as Drake, passionate about Rolex, young people easily turn to the second -hand market to offer themselves neoclassics, in the Old Money movement, which consists in seizing the codes of the upper bourgeoisie. “I am no longer surprised to see a 25 -year -old cartier lover … twenty years ago, he was rather 50 years old! What could be cooler than wearing a watch that could be the age of his father? ”, Roan Rére. Even craze for the reverso of Jaeger-LeCoultre of the 1930s, which, by its unique anatomy, stirs up curiosity. Real conversation parts, as historians like to call them. Ditto for the icons, like the Royal Oak of Audemars Piguet or the Speedmaster of Omega, which carry in them the mythology of the brand. “I’m talking about a“ storytelling ”collection: it allows you to tell a story,” adds the watchmaking expert. Read also: Luxury watches: Watch out for scams! “The favorite is the best placement” but what advice to give to a beginner buyer and on what points should it be vigilant? “Above all, the favorite remains the best placement. If you like the object, you sell it better. For a first purchase, a mechanical sports model, in steel-easier to wear and more resistant than gold-is a good compromise, ”he recommends. “You have to ensure the authenticity of the watch with an expert, who will open it to verify that the case, dial and movement are original. And, above all, do not be satisfied with the case or papers, which can be manufactured or purchased. ”And from a strategic and speculative point of view? “Turn towards an increasingly rare vintage part or refocus on watches under 10 years of which it is easier to guarantee authenticity and proper functioning,” recommends the co -founder of Collector Square. But, by the way, what are the advantages of the watch as an object of speculation? “It is easily bought and transports itself. She does not ask for a particular maintenance, nor excessive insurance or storage costs: it can be kept in the trunk, unlike a car or property, “concludes Romain Ré. Read also: Investing in watches the sure values ​​of the REMA RES expert for 2025Tudor © Tudor “The Tudor Submariner naval was worth between 3,000 and 5,000 euros fifteen years ago. Today, it is around 35,000 euros and should still gain value, including the 9401 reference, delivered to the navy until the 1980s. “Rolex © © © Rolex/Jean-Daniel Meyer” The Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, launched in 1963, remains one of the most coveted models despite its price (from 14,000 euros in store), but it will be necessary to wait several years possess. You will be rewarded since you can immediately double your bet. “Cartier © Vincent Wulveryck/Cartier” bet on the tank. If it is a model of the 1960s with movement Jaeger then ETA, it’s even better! The remarkable models of the 1960s or 1970s can be around 15,000 euros. “Breguet © Breguet” From the 1950s to 1970s, the XX -style chronograph, created for French army hunting pilots, oscillates between 20,000 and 40,000 euros. This tool watch is 100 times rarer than daytona! “Jaeger Le-Coultre © Jaeger le-Coultre” The iconic reverso of the 1930s, with its mixed size, can sell from 20,000 to 30,000 euros. New, it is found between 6,000 and 12,000 euros. A good placement. “And also whitepain” The Fifty Fathoms is prized because they are very rare, due to small production volumes. “Longines” The chronographs from the 1930s to 1970s are manufactured. And perfect for a moderate budget. “Omega” Speedmaster has lost its value in recent years, so it’s time to give it one before its rating dates back. There are 1960s between 5,000 and 8,000 euros. A watch that has gone to the moon is necessarily a safe placement! ” Romain Ré © Emmanuel Nguyen Ngocsscécaliste of vintage luxury watch and New Old Stock (new condition from an old stock), Romain Ré is at the head of two shops in Paris, an e-shop, www.romainrea.com. It is also CEO of antiquorum, house of time auctions of timepieces founded in 1974. (Tagstotranslate) Watch

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