Ariana Grande could not avoid the Oscars – both in the optical and physical sense. Her rose -colored robe from Schiaparelli, which, according to designer Daniel Daniel Roseberry, is to blame.
The stiff bustier top initially nestled closely onto the singer and actress’s torso, only to then take out and take room at the narrowest point of her waist. The dress of the thirty -one -year -olds quoted a silhouette that also dominates the catwalks of the current fashion weeks: Peplum, in good German. “Peplum” is due to the Greek term “Peplos”, which means as much as veil. In ancient times, a long women’s dress was called a long time in the waist with a belt-a premonition of today’s Peplum silhouette. As the excursion into the pre -Christian age suggests: As a primal feminine figure element, the focus on the waist in women’s fashion is a long tradition. Leave to the novel “Orlando” by Virginia Woolf, the models walks fashionably between epochs and gender roles. Mira from the East. The Berlin fashion designer has been building her own Cruba label since 2009, with which she follows a sustainable “Slow Fashion” approach. Her designs are collectibles that should have a place for a long time in the wardrobe of her wearer. “I always get through the silhouette from the design,” said from the east. “Peplum’s female design approach is also mine. For the first time we have a trouser suit in our collection, which plays with the contrast between broad shoulders and very close waist. This takes up the basic idea of the current zeitgeist. ”Fashion world and world events have always been going hand in hand. In the case of Peplum, it was Christian Dior who made the peppell element as part of the “New Look” in the post-war period. Dior felt his designs upside down: tiny waist, wide -out skirts. Opponents criticized the wasteful and everyday character of the “New Look”. But he catches up – that’s why. After the shortage of materials of the years of war, people longed for the luxury of the good old days. In 2009, designer Mira from the east has her own label Cruba based in Berlin-Mitte.Crubain motif, which can also be found in the current prêt-à-porter show by Dior for autumn/winter 2025. Dressed in ruffles, lace, ermine and humps, the models gave a fairytale sight. Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri leaned the collection of Virginia Woolf’s novel “Orlando”, whose noble protagonist in the England of the 16th century was wandering between gender roles and epochs. This loss in an inconsistent world is reflected in the catwalk looks: typical masculine tightening jackets and broad-shouldered coats meet typical feminine components such as corsages and cuff details. The models look like cavaliers that have fallen out of time, straight away on the way, and on the way, and on the unknown. Designer Mira from the East recognizes exactly these motifs in the return of the figure-hugging Peplum look: “I think he is an appropriate reflection of today’s zeitgeist, which is shaped by great uncertainty. We come from a pandemic in which everyone was only at home in the Pyjamas – and now we are in a post -pandemic period that is characterized by economic and political uncertainty. There is a longing for something that strengthens and gives us. ”Quoting well -known design forms satisfies exactly these social longings. At the same time, the designer warns Peplum hastily dismissed as a backward, conservative look: “It is highly exciting that we are ready to emancipate women to dress in one of the historically oldest cuts. For us designers it is a wonderful invitation to redefine this silhouette. ”What does femininity mean today? Prada provides fashionable answers. Helmut Frickeauch At the fashion weeks in Milan and Paris, numerous fashion designers have accepted this invitation. In addition to Dior, Balmain, Valentino or Prada showed the courage to play with a narrow waist and wide hip. What unites all of these is the fashionable search for a new form of femininity. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the two Prada designers, rely on a laminating, informal peplum silhouette and sent the models on the catwalk with unknown hair and bushy brows. “What is female beauty today?” – That was the key question of the collection, as Miuccia Prada said after the show. Although waist belts or loops indicate a emphasis on the typical feminine attributes, the wearer itself is responsible for how closely she wants to lace up to Berlin, to Mira from the east. “Perhaps it all brings us together as a society, maybe it works across all borders, who knows?” She asks the open question at the end of the conversation. Yes, maybe yesterday and tomorrow will move a little closer together when you are looking for the new in the old.
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